Test Results :: Cornsilk

CiM Cornsilk (CiM314) is a soft opalescent yellow that stays a beautiful translucent colour no matter how you abuse it in the flame. I found two of my three rods of Cornsilk to be a little bit shocky, and I did get some bubbling as I was working it, but in the long spaces between those issues, this colour was pleasant to work with, smooth, and buttery.

In case you're wondering, Effetre Yellow Opalino and this colour are not really anything alike. Yellow Opalino is much less reactive with silver, much more yellow in colour and tends to opacify. I would have made a test paddle, but I don't have any Yellow Opalino currently and resisted buying some.

The only colour we had already in the 104 Palette that really bears any resemblance to Cornsilk is Effetre Yellow Alabastro, but because I am so afraid of the Alabastro colours after my unpleasant brush with Ivory Alabastro that I couldn't make myself buy any, there's no comparison between that glass and Cornsilk happening in this post.  I'm imagining that the Yellow Alabastro is just as shocky, boily, and nasty as the Ivory was and maybe that's a little unfair. If I ever run out of other colours to test, maybe I'll screw up my courage and try it.

Here you can see that Cornsilk doesn't change much after you reduce it.  The smaller, reduced bead does look a bit darker here but I'm pretty sure that it's because my background is dark and there is less Cornsilk present than in the leftmost bead.

Here is a bead that shows the colour differences between CiM Ecru, CiM Cornsilk, and CiM Ghee. Cornsilk stays opal while those two colours are cloudier and Ghee can look downright opaque depending on how it strikes.

Silver leaf fumes Cornsilk a rich caramel colour, with the silver turning brown in places and beading up into pretty little silver balls. When the silver is reduced and encased, it mostly just looks solidly greyish under the clear.  Silver Foil under a layer of Cornsilk looks much yellower than the colour of Cornsilk would seem to justify, and so I think it's safe to say that Cornsilk belongs in the same reaction category as colours like Mojito, Pale Green Apple, Straw Yellow, and Light Brown Transparent.

Cornsilk seems to make a pretty nice base colour for silver glass.  I got pretty colours in both of these beads, and with the reduction frit, the cornsilk fumed a deeper yellow in places.

I regret not doing my reduction frit stringer test with this colour, because after seeing how it works with both silver and silver glass, I have a feeling I would have been pleased with the results.

Copper green, Opal Yellow, Ivory, and Peace all separate on top of Cornsilk. Apart from that and the pretty fuming with silver, I didn't notice much in the way of reactions with this colour.

Here are some other beads made with Cornsilk:

Test Results :: Lipstick

Reichenbach Lipstick (RL6116) is a bright, happy semi-opaque (opal) red. This colour melts really nicely, does not boil easily, and didn't turn grey on me the way Reichenbach Strawberry did, although I should really try that colour again now that I have a more powerful oxygen concentrator.

Here is Lipstick with some other colours for reference.  Effetre Light Red is actually quite similar to Lipstick, although I think Lipstick is a bit lighter and a bit less opaque.  CiM Valentine and CiM Hemoglobin are substantially darker.  CiM Maraschino is darker in colour and more transparent than Lipstick.

Lipstick does not change significantly when it is reduced.

On top of Lipstick, silver leaf really crusts up, and the Lipstick itself fumes a dark colour. When the silver is reduced and encased, it turns blue. The Lipstick stays dark though, and does not lighten under the clear the way some other colours have for this test.

Lipstick is a good base for silver glass. I got some nice colour out of both my TerraNova2 frit and my blend of reduction glasses on top of this colour, and the dark line that forms around the fritty bits really make them pop.

Here you can see that because this colour is not fully opaque, it looks significantly lighter when used over a lighter base colour.

Lipstick separates on top of Tuxedo, and the edges of Tuxedo stringer lines and dots on top of Lipstick are a little fuzzy.

All of the colours I used here with Lipstick seem to have spread on top of it.  Ivory separated and developed a lightline up the middle, and there is a greyish dark line reaction with Copper Green that is both wide and blotchy.

Here are some other beads made with Lipstick:

Test Results :: Multicolor Dark

Reichenbach Multicolor Dark (RL6206) is a reactive striking colour. It is relatively easy to strike. The rods are a reddish purple colour, they go transparent when heated, and then turn green as they cool, then striking to blue, purple, and sometimes even a reddish colour.

You can see here that reducing the Multi Dark doesn't make it shiny and doesn't cloud it up the way Raku behaves when reduced. Here, it just advanced the colour of the glass into the purple hues.

I have noticed that in order to strike this colour, you need to let it get fairly cool and then give it a thorough, deliberate reheating. I was not able to screw it up -- no matter how I did it, I still got great colour, so that's a huge point in its favour.

I've now had two different versions of Multi Dark - or at least they seem different based on the appearance of the unmelted rods.

Both of the goddesses below are solid Multi Dark.  The top one was made with the darker rods and the bottom one was made with the older, paler-rodded variety. Maybe the newer, darker-rodded batch gives more deep blues, but it's also possible that these two beads received a different amount of heat, were cooled a different number of times, etc. This is a seriously beautiful colour, and no matter what batch of it you have, it's great glass.

  

On top of Multi Dark, silver disperses such that it's not really apparent on the surface. In so doing, it seems to inhibit the natural colours of the glass, or maybe just cover them up. When the silver is reduced and encased, it forms a solid layer through which you cannot see much of the base bead.

Copper Green, Opal Yellow, and Peace all separate on top of Multi Dark, and Multi Dark does not inhibit the sheen that develops on top of Copper Green.

Ivory forms a dark line reaction and turns a dark greyish brown around the edges of the dots and stringer lines when used on top of Multi Dark, and it also seems to separate. When Multi Dark is used on top of Ivory, it gets a dark outline and fumes the base ivory a brownish colour.

Here are some other beads made with Multicolor Dark.