Test Results :: Light Gray

Effetre Light Gray (EFF248) is an elephantine opaque colour. It is somewhat reactive with Ivory, fairly inert with other colours, and makes an interesting base colour for silver and silver glass.

When you reduce it, Light Grey 'browns up' a little.

Silver on top of Light Grey turns yellowish and pinkish. When the silver is reduced and encased, it loses this interesting colour.

Reducing silver glass spreads and develops a nice sheen on top of Light Gray. I got a decent starting strike from my TerraNova2 on top of this colour, and like the pale halos that I can see around the TerraNova2 fritty bits.

Light Gray separates a little on top of Tuxedo.

Ivory and Light Gray develop a reciprocal dark line reaction. In the case where the Ivory is on top, the result is a dark line that almost looks like a shadow. When the Light Gray is on top, the reaction is crackly and intermittent, giving the stringer lines and dots a translucent, jagged appearance.

Here are some other beads that include Light Gray:

Test Results :: Sunset

CiM Sunset (CiM210) is a dark orange opaque, almost-but-not-quite as dark as CiM Phoenix and in a similar hue range.

Sunset is a striking colour and will get darker with repeated heating and cooling, but a simple waft through a reduction flame didn't change its colour.

Silver crusts up and gets yellowish on top of Sunset. When the silver is reduced and encased it turns blue in places.

Silver Glass reacts with Sunset in a dark-line way. I got a beautiful starting strike on my TerraNova2 frit on top of this colour.

While Sunset is only a moderately reactive colour, there are some interesting things going on in these test beads.

While nothing of note happens when Tuxedo is used over Sunset, Sunset separates on top of Tuxedo.

Copper Green separates and develops a subtle dark line around it when it is used on top of Sunset. When the Sunset is on top, the exact opposite is true and it is the Sunset that separates and the dark line is subtle but wide.

Opal Yellow and Ivory both separate on top of Sunset. When the Sunset is on top, it is the separator. In both cases, the sunset edges get 'eaten' by the base colour. The reaction in both cases is more pronounced with Ivory than it is with Opal Yellow.

These beads all contain some Sunset.

Test Results :: Loch Ness

CiM Loch Ness (CiM432) is a very dark green moonstone colour, although to me it just seems like a very dark transparent since it is quite difficult to see through, even when used in thin layers. It's a very well-behaved colour, buttery and easy to control except that it gets a lot easier to boil it when applying it in thin layers with stringer. Work cooler and higher up in your flame to avoid this problem.

Loch Ness does not change colour when you reduce it, and looks pretty much black when used in self-coloured spacers.

Silver dissolves in a fun way on top of Loch Ness, looking almost like a starscape or galaxy. When the silver is reduced and encased, it opacifies on top of the Loch Ness and develops hints of blue here and there.

This colour has potential as a good base colour for silver glass. Both my reducing silver glass and my striking silver glass got great colour on top of it.

Copper Green separates with Loch Ness, but apart from that it is not a terribly reactive colour. This reaction happens with Light Turquoise as well, so I suspect it will happen with most turquoise opaque glasses.

This colour does not react with Ivory, and it is always good to find greens and blues where that is true.


These beads all contain some Loch Ness: