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January 22, 2016

Test Results :: Navy Blue

1 - Plain, 2 - Plain (reduced), 3 - w/ Silver Leaf, 4 - w/ Silver Leaf (reduced & encased), 5 - w/ TerraNova2 Frit, 6 - w/ Silver Glass Frit (reduced), 7 & 8 - w/ Tuxedo, Copper Green, Opal Yellow, Ivory, and Peace

Effetre Navy Blue is #591238 at Frantz which I think means that it is part of the regular production set of opaque colours from Effetre (200 series) and is machine-pulled (even number), if the way things have historically been numbered continues to carry any significance at all. This is great news for me, because I like this colour way too much to be able to cope with it going away anytime soon.

I don't want to dwell on this too much, but this colour is not really navy blue in the way that I understand navy blue should look.  It is more of a dark slate blue, more on the blue side than grey. It's reactive, and it gets a really serious amount of grey scuzziness on the surface -- worse than anything you've seen with Copper Green or Dark Turquoise -- that makes the colour an excellent candidate for etching. It is probably possible to remove the dirty grey layer in other ways, but I got a new tumbler this past summer and I am pretty fixated on tumbling, so I haven't tried any of the other traditional methods like soaking Coca Cola, Toilet Bowl Cleaner, or CLR.


These beads are both plain Navy Blue, with the bead on the right having been heavily reduced. The grey smudginess is not evident in the bead on the left because this simple spacer wasn't worked much. You'll see the heavy grey sheen more visibly in the next beads since the more you work this colour, the worse it looks :)


Silver spreads out on the surface of Navy Blue and forms little silvery dots on the surface. Also, the surface of the Navy Blue has gone purplish and shiny with the addition of silver. When this is reduced and encased, it just looks like a greenish stain on the surface of the Navy Blue.  Like with my Antique Green test, I'm not sure if the encased bead cracked because Navy Blue is picky about being encased or if it happened because I waited too long before I put it in the kiln. I need to do a bit more investigation here, and so do you if you want to be sure it's safe to encase it.


In my TerraNova2 frit bead, you can see that there are light halos around all of the little fritty bits. I didn't get great colour from the frit, so there's nothing magical about using it with Navy Blue, but I could probably have done better with that. The reducing silver glass on top of Navy Blue kind of blends into the background and is unremarkable in the bead on the right.



Navy Blue separates on top of Tuxedo.

On top of Navy Blue, Copper Green looks bright turquoise and separates into lighter and darker teal. Similarly, when Navy Blue is on top of Copper Green, the Navy Blue separates into lighter and darker blue.

Opal Yellow and Navy Blue aren't great together because even though there is an interesting reaction, it's polluted with a messy haze. Opal Yellow separates on top of Navy Blue and a darkish shadowy line develops around it in the Navy Blue part (see the leftmost bead). Navy Blue separates on top of Opal Yellow.

Ivory reacts dramatically with Navy Blue. You can see in the bead on the left that there is a dramatic black line reaction around the Ivory dots and lines. In the bead on the right, the Navy Blue has gone blackish mostly, but also coppery in some places on top of the Ivory. I'm not sure how to reliably reproduce that coppery reaction, but it's pretty cool.

Peace separates only very slightly on top of Navy Blue, and Navy Blue darkens around the Peace dots and lines when Peace is used on top of it.  On top of Peace, Navy Blue separates and in places seems to bleed into the PEace and look a bit blurry.

And here are some fun beads using Navy Blue. All of these beads have been tumble-etched.
 With Effetre Wood and CiM Moccasin.

It's in the Rainbow cane, and used to splotch-frame the bead.


 One of two base colours in this fritted cane bead set. The cane was a core of Opal Yellow encased with Navy Blue, rolled several times in my Borealis frit blend (Borealis is not yet released).
 
 Used as the base colour in these two sets with Under the Sea FrittyBits.

With Effetre Antique Green.

With Effetre Wood and Effetre Cinnamon Chocolotta.

December 26, 2015

Test Results :: Antique Green

1 - Plain, 2 - Plain (reduced), 3 - w/ Silver Leaf, 4 - w/ Silver Leaf (reduced & encased), 5 - w/ Silver Glass (reduced), 6 - w/ TerraNova2 Frit, 7 & 8 - w/ Tuxedo, Copper Green, Opal Yellow, Ivory, and Peace


I love this colour. Effetre Antique Green is Copper Green's paler, smoother, less socially awkward cousin. It is smoother in that it isn't grainy like Copper Green, and therefore does not pit while you're working it. What I mean by 'less socially awkward' is that while it has a lot of the same sorts of reactions with other colours that Copper Green has, those reactions are less dramatic, and therefore less likely to take over any given bead. It is milder in colour, being a light seafoam green and never the vivid turquoise that we can get from Copper Green. Oh, and the best part? It does not scuzz up in a neutral flame the way Copper Green can.


You can see the smooth seafoam colour of the Antique Green in the bead on the left. On the right, the reduced bead has a mottled red coating. This beautiful brick-red colour is not very even, but I feel sure that it could have been if I'd been trying for that effect and was very methodical in my reduction.


You can see in the bead on the left that reducing silver on Antique Green gives a soft, pinkish haze around the edges of the silver. This is a beautiful and completely exploitable effect that is particularly beautiful when you make dot beads with Antique Green and a silver-rich glass. 

In the bead on the right, you can see that there is some cracking along the mandrel line. I'm not really sure what caused that - it may be that Antique Green doesn't much like being encased, but I also may have waved this around in the air and stared at it for too long before putting it in the kiln. I need to do a bit more research here.


In the leftmost bead, you can see the same kind of pink blushing around the silver glass frit as you saw in the silver-encrusted bead (above).  In both beads, I got beautiful colour from the silver glass frit I used -- I was particularly excited by the pretty rainbow that I got in the TerraNova2 frit in the bead on the right. Antique Green is clearly a colour that loves silver.


Antique Green is a bit funny in its reactions, too, in that it appears to be reactive with just about everything. For the most part, it behaves like Copper Green -- reciprocal dark line reaction with Ivory, separation reactions with other greens/blues, but it also has some interesting differences. For instance, it is reactive in a dark pink line way with Opal Yellow, and it separates when used with Tuxedo.

All in all, I find this colour beautiful, wonderful to work with, and exciting to combine with other colours. I wish more vendors carried it, because eventually my supplier is going to run out and then I am not sure where I will get more!

Here are some fun beads with Antique Green.
 
 

November 16, 2015

Test Results :: Emperor

1 - Plain, 2 - Plain (reduced), 3 - w/ Silver Leaf, 4 - w/ Silver Leaf (reduced & encased), 5 - w/ Silver Glass frit (reduced), 6 - w/ TerraNova2 Frit, 7 - Over Silver Foil, 8 - In Silver Glass Frit Stringer (encased), 9 & 10 - w/ Tuxedo, Copper Green, Opal Yellow, Ivory, and Peace

CiM Emperor, to me, is like a slightly subdued, purplish version of CiM Cranberry. The reactions are basically the same as Cranberry, and the basic hue of it is Cranberry-like. Also, this colour gets purpler the more you strike it, which Cranberry doesn't do. The main technical observation that I have about working with Emperor is that it is difficult to get Emperor to strike when it is used in thin layers, but that's not terribly unusual for a striking color.


In this picture, you can see that the bead on the right (which has been reduced, and struck repeatedly in a neutral flame) is far purpler than the bead on the left. Both beads are plain Emperor.


Like Cranberry, Emperor turns silver a yellowish colour. Reducing and encasing silver on Emperor results in a beautiful, blue-mottled iridescence under the clear coat.


And just like with Cranberry, when you put Emperor over silver foil (being careful not to melt it as you melt the top layer in) you get a strange golden brown from the foil underneath the pinkish purple of the colour.


Emperor makes a good base for silver glass. I got nice colour and behaviour from both the reducing and striking colours here.


And as frit stringer with reactive silver glass frit, Emperor does a good job of bringing out the blues and greens of the frit, but the effect is sort of dark and not as dramatic as it is when this technique is used with Effetre Straw Yellow or Light Brown Transparent.



I did not observe anything of note happening between Emperor and Tuxedo

Copper Green separates into two different colours of turquoise when used on top of Emperor.

Opal Yellow separates on top of Emperor and develops a faint three-dimensionality to its look as a result.

On top of Ivory, Emperor turns brown. When Emperor is used as the base colour, Ivory gets a brownish look to it and separates. This reaction is the same as what happens between Ivory and Cranberry except that it is far less wild.

Peace separates quite dramatically on top of Emperor.

These beads are Emperor with Lizard and Wood.