Test Results :: Anole

Today is my 10th anniversary!  10 years ago, I posted my first glass review and then look what happened.  I hope you enjoy this one and the ones that will inevitably follow.  I don't know whether or not I have 10 more years of this in me, but I guess it's possible! :D

 

CiM Anole (CiM480) is a pretty, light green semi-opaque colour that stays translucent as you work it. It's the same hue as Elixir, only with less translucency.

I was not expecting it to be, but Anole is a bit sensitive to overreduction. Reducing it here made it darker and yellower than the other Anole beads.

Silver disperses over the surface of Anole in little veins, and then springs forth with a largely uninteresting white blankety effect when it is encased, without any blue blushing, translucency, or iridescence to make it interesting.

I got pretty colour from my reducing silver glass frit against this colour, even if my TerraNova2 frit was slow to strike on top of it. These reactions were a bit of a let-down though after my results with Elixir. I think I'm noticing that the misty opals have some silver glass-influencing power in them that colours like Anole lack.

Ivory and Copper Green both separate on top of Anole, but apart from that I didn't notice much in terms of reactions in these beads.

Here are some beads made with Anole.

Test Results :: Peppermint Cream

Peppermint Cream (CiM488) is a pale, yellowish green opaque colour. It is soft and creamy, and my rods were very well behaved, not shocking at all in the flame. It reminds me quite a bit of an older colour called Linen, except that it has a greenish cast to it.

Nothing of any significance happens when you reduce Peppermint Cream.

This colour is a touch lighter than Dirty Martini and just a shade or two yellower.

When I encased Peppermint Cream after putting silver on it, it cracked under my Effetre 006 Clear. This doesn't mean you shouldn't encase it, but it definitely means that you shouldn't encase it after putting silver on it. This has happened to me with other colours that are otherwise perfectly compatible like Effetre Petroleum Green and CiM Linen. Just proceed with caution, and make a test bead before embarking on a big run of beads the way you always should anyway.

Peppermint Cream seems to be an average base colour for silver glass. It fumed a bit when I reduced the reduction frit, and the TerraNova2 frit started to strike, but no magic happened.

Peppermint Cream is not terribly reactive, but it does separate on top of Tuxedo and Ivory.  On top of Tuxedo, it has a milk-moustache sort of appearance, almost translucent.

Other colours (Ivory, Opal Yellow, Copper Green, Tuxedo) all seem to spread out on top of it.

Also, you can see in the Tuxedo dots and stringer lines that Peppermint Cream made Tuxedo bleed out into it quite a bit.

Here are some other beads that include some Peppermint Cream:

Test Results :: Pistachio

Effetre Pistachio (EFF415) is a gorgeous yellow-green-grey ochre colour, both greener and lighter than most batches of Vetrofond  Yellow Ochre. It's similar to Effetre Apple Blush, but is lighter and more subdued in hue. It's a streaky colour, so sometimes when you use it you get lines in your work where it joins onto itself, but that's its only real flaw.

As you melt Pistachio, it goes a bit lighter than its rod colour, but as you use it the colour all comes back. You can see in the left bead here that it is a bit lighter - it's only because I hadn't struck all of the colour back into it. Pistachio doesn't change colour when you reduce it.

Here you can see that Pistachio reacts with silver in a similar manner to Ivory. Silver discolours and covers its surface when you use it on top, and when you reduce and encase the silver it gets pinkish and blueish tones in it.

Pistachio is an interesting base colour for reducing silver glass because of the neat colour contrast, and I got some nice colour in my TerraNova2 frit, but overall these test beads weren't very remarkable.

Pistachio and Copper Green form a mutual dark line reaction that is more pronounced and invasive when the Pistachio is on top.  It does this with Opal Yellow, too, in a similar way to what you see when you use Opal Yellow and Ivory together.

Ivory separates on top of Pistachio and Pistachio separates on top of Ivory.

Here are some other beads that include Pistachio:

Test Results :: Oobleck

CiM Oobleck (CiM465) is a that's-not-a-colour-we-see-a-lot-here-on-earth sort of colour. It's wickedly vibrant, beautiful to work, and I was intrigued by its reactions with other colours. Most of the opaques I tried with it spread on top of it, and I love it with silver.

Here you can see that Oobleck doesn't change when you reduce it.

It does change, though, quite a lot, when you put silver on it. Silver turns Oobleck an ochre colour. You can see some of that in action in the beads at the end of this post. On top of Oobleck, silver looks beigeish and beads up a little. When the silver on top of Oobleck is reduced and encased, it takes on a blueish cast.

My silver glass travelled to the middle of the Oobleck beads for some reason. And once it got there, in both cases, behaved very interestingly. i got cool outlines around all of my reduction frit pieces, and it developed colour in a beautifully variegated way. My TerraNova2 frit got very interesting, thick outlines and also developed colour really nicely. So, good base for silver glass is Oobleck.

Something worth noting is that I got all this gorgeous colour from the silver glass frit but although Oobleck is clearly quite reactive with silver, it didn't take on a lot of fume when I reduced the silver glass frit on top of it. Interesting.

Oobleck reacts like it thinks it's Ivory, in a category with other colours like Coral, Vetrofond Yellow Ochre, Effetre Grasshopper, and most yellows, oranges, ivories, and some reds. It develops a dark line with Copper Green, and brownish line with Opal Yellow, and seems to be heavier than the other colours I used it with here because they spread on it like crazy.

On top of Ivory, Tuxedo, and Peace, Oobleck separated into darker and lighter versions of itself.

These beads all contain some Oobleck.

Test Results :: Peat Moss

CiM Peat Moss (CiM452) is a rich, earthy olive green transparent colour. It is definitely unique in the 104 CoE palette, and I hope that we see more of both this and Eel Grass, my other favourite transparent from this lot of new CiM colours.

Peat Moss doesn't change much when you reduce it.

Here, I've compared Peat Moss against Effetre Olive and Effetre Light Grass Green.  As you can see, it is significantly more on the yellow side and a fair bit browner than both of those colours. I got a lot of bubbles in all of these colours, which is no doubt my own fault, but Peat Moss does seem to be a colour that likes to bubble, especially when it is used in stringer form. I think the key to avoiding these bubbles is to work slower and cooler, which I'll practice :)

On top of Peat Moss, my silver turned yellow in a thick crusty layer. When I encased a similar layer of silver with clear on top of Peat Moss, all of the silver turned white.

I think this is the test result that confused me the most.  In all of my previous tests, when I've encased silver foil with a transparent colour, it has either turned the silver golden OR left it a shiny silver under the colour layer. Peat Moss is the first colour that has effectively deadened the silver so that it has no shine at all.

On top of Peat Moss, my reducing silver glass developed very interesting colour and edges, leading me to believe that Peat Moss is a good colour to use with reducing silver glass.  My TerraNova2 frit didn't do anything remarkable - Peat Moss seems like it would be an average base colour for striking silver glass.

Here you can see that Peat Moss does interesting things when pulled into stringer with reducing silver glass frit. I was surprised to see that I got this result but that it did not turn my silver foil gold, since up until now there has been a strong correlation between those two behaviours.

Copper Green, Opal Yellow, Ivory, and Peace all separate on top of Peat Moss.  Also interesting, Copper Green didn't develop its customary greyish patina when worked with Peat Moss.

Here are a few beads made with Peat Moss:

Test Results :: Chartreuse

CiM Chartreuse is a bright and pretty translucent, lime green glass.  It's a more on the yellow side of green than its close cousin Inchworm, which I blogged about last week, but is otherwise quite similar.

This colour is a bit greener and way more transparent than Vetrofond Key Lime, which was an opaque chartreuse colour in the early days of it being for sale that got streakier and more cored with transparent as time went on and eventually morphed into what Frantz started calling 'Key Lime Parrot' which was a Key Lime-skinned transparent green with a solid stringer core. The true opaque Key Lime is the stuff that I miss.

This colour is perhaps a little more on the yellow side than I remember Vetrofond Parrot Green being, which was a bright green transparent that had some murky streakiness to it, and this colour is more translucent, but I think it fills the hole that Parrot Green's departure left. I wish I still had some of these two old colours so that I could do a side-by-side comparison, but mine is long gone.

Reducing Chartreuse does not alter the colour or surface finish.

Silver behaves with Chartreuse much as it did with Inchworm. It dissipates on the surface until you reduce and encase it, where it blankets the base bead with hints of blue fume here and there. Also, it does not alter the colour of silver when you use it to encase silver foil. The silver looks green through it, but it doesn't turn golden or coppery the way it does with many other colours in this hue group like Mojito and Pale Green Apple.

Chartreuse seems to be a good base colour for silver glass. In the leftmost bead, there were great reactions with the silver glass frit, although the blue doesn't stand out that well against the green of the Chartreuse, and I got a good starting strike from the TerraNova2 frit.

Like Inchworm, the main reaction ability that Chartreuse seems to have is to make the other colours separate on top of it. This happened with Copper Green, Ivory, Opal Yellow, and Peace. This colour doesn't seem to have adverse reactions with Ivory, either. In fact, you can see in the bead on the left that Ivory rises up in interesting halos around Inchworm dots.

I didn't have many rods of Chartreuse and they were all fairly thin, so apart from these test beads all I managed was this earring pair.

Test Results :: Light Umber

Effetre Light Umber is one of the 800-series colours, which probably means that it's limited production and won't be around for too much longer. I think it's a really interesting colour, pretty unique in the 104 palette, and both earthy and fiery at the same time. Depending on how much you strike it and the other colours it is used with, it can range from looking quite a burnt orange to being a very dark olive green, and all the shades in between.

Here you can see that in the bead I reduced, the colour is much darker. I'm not sure if this is because it struck in the reduction flame or if reducing it actually darkened the colour. Putting silver on Light Umber also made it a dark brownish green.

In the leftmost bead, you can see that silver turns a greyish colour and stays more or less in place on top of Light Umber, similarly to how it behaves with Ivory. Reduced and encased, the silver turns blue.

I am pretty sure that this cracking was the result of me having a rod of old Precision 104 Diamond Clear mixed in with my clear shorts, and not from putting silver on Light Umber, but the bead I put silver leaf on top of cracked in a really odd way. It's clearly a compatibility crack, because of how weirdly jagged and around the widest part of the bead it is, and dicey clear is the only thing I can think of that could have caused this.

Light Umber goes dark in beads with silver glass, too. I think it's a great base colour for silver glasses - the reduction colours pop, and the striking silver glass got beautiful purples even if I wasn't patient enough to properly develop the colour.

Light Umber is very reactive with Tuxedo - you can see in the leftmost bead how it has risen around the Tuxedo in halos, and in the bead on the right how it has quite dramatically separated on top of the Tuxedo.

With Copper Green, the edges of whichever colour is used in smaller quantity get dark, but the reaction is mild. Light Umber separates slightly on top of Copper Green and Copper Green spreads on top of Light Umber.

There are no obvious reactions between Light Umber and Opal Yellow, Ivory, or Peace. There is a slight separation of Light Umber on top of Opal Yellow and Peace, but nothing dramatic.

And here are some fun beads with Light Umber :)