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April 16, 2019

Test Results :: Ectoplasm

Ectoplasm (CiM474) is a medium-to-light green semi-opaque colour that is a bit more muted than some of the other new shades of green in this new lineup of CiM colours. It is a pretty shade of green, has interesting reactions with other colours, and is nice with both silver and silver glass.

Here you can see that Ectoplasm doesn't change colour when you reduce it. The smaller bead only looks a bit darker in this picture because more of the dark background is visible through it because it has less glass than the other bead.

Silver leaf makes a playful, shiny, lacy design on top of Ectoplasm. When the silver is reduced and encased, it fills out to a more uniform shiny blanket with blue fume visible in it.

Ectoplasm seems to make a pretty nice base colour for silver glass.

On top of Ectoplasm, Copper Green, Opal Yellow, Ivory, and Peace all separate.

The most interesting reaction in these beads, though, is where I used Ectoplasm on top of Ivory. In the beads above, you can see that where Ectoplasm is over Ivory, it spreads out and the Ivory rises up around it in a feathery layer that looks almost 3-dimensional. Cool.

Here are some other beads made with Ectoplasm.

April 8, 2019

Test Results :: Aiko

CiM Aiko (CiM468) is a light teal transparent colour, very similar in hue to Effetre Light Teal. It's a bit stiffer than Light Teal, and I found it easier to boil than Light Teal until I got the hang of giving it a bit less heat than my normal.

After doing these tests, I would choose Light Teal Transparent over this colour if I were going to be encasing with it, but if I was planning to use it with Silver or with other colours in combinations where I wanted to minimize any angry reactions, then I would definitely go with Aiko instead.

Here you can see that as I eased into these test beads, I didn't have a great feel for how hot I could get Aiko without it bubbling. This is not a particularly difficult colour to use, and it's easy to avoid these bubbles if you work up a bit higher in your flame.

Reducing Aiko doesn't change its colour at all.

Here I've sandwiched Aiko between Serenity and Light Teal. You can see that it is only very slightly darker than Effetre Light Teal and a bit lighter and quite a bit greener than Serenity.

Silver beads up and disperses over the surface of Aiko. When you reduce and encase the silver, it is a greyish blue. This is quite different from the result I got when I encased silver under Light Teal, because in that combination the silver turned quite yellow.  I wonder what the difference is chemically?

Silver Glass is pretty nice on top of Aiko, both the reducing kind and the striking kind.

There are no significant reactions in these test beads apart from a very minor amount of dark line reaction when Aiko is on top of Ivory. There's maybe a tiny bit of separation in Peace, Copper Green, and Ivory when used on top of it, but it's very, very minor.

I am always excited when I find teals, turquoises, blues, and greens that are not very reactive because they are more versatile than their more volatile cousins. This colour is like a paler and greener version of Serenity, with fewer and less dramatic separation reactions with other colours.

Here are some other beads made with Aiko.

March 27, 2019

Test Results :: Serengeti

CiM Serengeti (CiM729) is a medium, yellowish brown colour. On CiM's website it says that Serengeti has reddish overtones, and the paddle colour is very orange, but achieving colours like that with Serengeti was not possible for me.

Serengeti is a striking colour. The bead on the right was reduced, but reduction is not necessary to darken it. It will darken with repeated heating and cooling as you're working your bead.

Silver crusts up on the surface of Serengeti, and I think I see the faintest hint of a reddish blush underneath it. When I reduced and encased the silver, it turned pink and blue.

Serengeti seems to make a decent base colour for silver glass, but not a magical one.

When you put Tuxedo on top of Serengeti, it makes the Serengeti separate and raise up in halos around it.

Serengeti does a very interesting thing when you put it on top of Ivory. It both separates gently and if you look at the dots of Serengeti on top of Ivory, it almost looks like there is space underneath them and you could pry them up. The Serengeti separated underneath Ivory as well, screwing up the edges of my stringer lines and dots.

The colour of Serengeti can apparently be made more vivid by applying it on top of Peace or White in thin layers.

These beads all contain some Serengeti:

March 19, 2019

Test Results :: Weeping Willow

CiM Weeping Willow (CiM467) is a pretty medium grey-green opaque colour. I love the more muted colours, so this is right up my alley.

When I reduced Weeping Willow, its greyness increased a little.

Silver crusts up and turns golden in places on top of Weeping Willow. When it is reduced and encased, the yellow is pronounced golden streaks over the grey-blue of the encased silver.

I got pretty colour from my reduction frit on top of Weeping Willow, but not much of a starting strike from the TerraNova2 frit.

Like many other greens, Weeping Willow develops a reciprocal dark line reaction with Ivory.

Weeping Willow, also like many other greens, is a very streaky colour and separated on top of all of the colours I used it with.

Copper Green separates on top of Weeping Willow.

Here are some other beads with Weeping Willow.

March 5, 2019

Test Results :: Petroleum Green

Effetre Petroleum Green (EFF218) is a pretty teal green opaque colour. I had never really used it before I made these beads and some things about it really surprised me.

The things that I found surprising about this colour will maybe not come as surprises to you. For one thing, this colour is very, very streaky. You can see streaks in it when you make simple spacers, and it separates like mad on top of just about everything. It's also very soft -- much softer than using other opaque teals like CiM Mermaid and Effetre Marine Green will prepare you to expect.

I expected Petroleum Green to turn red when I reduced it, but it didn't.

Silver isn't very interesting on top of Petroleum Green until you reduce and encase it and it turns a bright mustard colour. Petroleum Green has this yellow-with-silver-under-clear thing in common with Copper Green, Light Teal, Light Aqua, and Celadon.

Unfortunately, encasing the reduced silver will crack your bead. If you've made beads before with Petroleum Green and silver and then encased your beads with Effetre Super Clear only to find they cracked... well... me too.

Silver Glass is interesting on top of Petroleum Green. Because the Petroleum Green is so very soft, it rises up and swallows frit pretty easily, which is why you might be wondering why I didn't put more frit on the leftmost bead. It is a decent base for striking silver glass colours - my TerraNova2 frit got a very nice starting strike.

As I mentioned already, Petroleum Green separates on top of everyhing. It also gets a creeping brown reaction line with Ivory that is not very uniform.

Opal Yellow and Copper Green both separate on top of this colour.

Here are some beads made with Petroleum Green.

February 27, 2019

Test Results :: Wheatgrass

CiM Wheatgrass (CiM471) is a medium, misty opal green. It reminds me of Effetre Dark Emerald, but the wispiness gives it more depth.

Wheatgrass doesn't change colour when you reduce it.

Silver is pretty on Wheatgrass. It dispersed all over the surface of the leftmost bead and left a bluish haze all over the surface. In the rightmost bead, you can see I got lots of blue fumey 'glow' from the silver on top of Wheatgrass. In the centre bead, I encased silver foil with Wheatgrass on top of Wheatgrass and you can see that the silver stays true under Wheatgrass, resulting in a reflective green.

Silver Glass is also quite nice on top of Wheatgrass. I got pretty colours from my reduction frit, and a gorgeous red/purple starting strike from my TerraNova2 frit.

On top of Wheatgrass, Copper Green, Opal Yellow, Ivory, and Peace all separate.

When the Wheatgrass is on top, this reaction is only evident in the Copper Green.

Here are some other beads made with Wheatgrass.

February 12, 2019

Test Results :: Baked Alaska

CiM Baked Alaska (CiM317) is a beautiful pale yellow colour that strikes in the flame. I thought it would be like Effetre Opal Yellow, and it is a very similar colour alone, but the reactions with other colours are quite different.

Baked Alaska is a striking colour, and the longer you work it, the more yellow/peach it becomes.

Baked Alaska really shines here. In the leftmost bead, I applied silver leaf and burnished it in, and then melted it down. I love all the silver that is visible on the surface and how in places, the Baked Alaska has fumed a deep salmony colour. In the rightmost bead, the silver leaf is greyish blue over pink, which I find interesting and unique.

Unlike its Effetre cousin Opal Yellow, Baked Alaska doesn't energize the reactions in silver glass.

When you use Tuxedo on top of Baked Alaska, it doesn't seem like it will be reactive, but if you switch it around so that the Tuxedo is on top you can see that the Baked Alaska separates, with a translucency to the outside of the stringerwork that is sort of milk-mustachey. Baked Alaska does not bleed with Tuxedo the way Opal Yellow does.

When you put Baked Alaska on top of Opal Yellow, it gets an interesting yellow and yellow/green halo around it that is pretty rare. When the Opal Yellow is on top, nothing very interesting happens.

Ivory separates on top of Baked Alaska with a wide, darker centre stripe/dot in the middle of the stringerwork. When the Ivory is on top, nothing happens. I love the way the Ivory separated much better than the greyish dark line I got from Opal Yellow with Ivory.

On top of Peace, Baked Alaska looks oddly green.

Here are some other beads that include some Baked Alaska.