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August 14, 2017

Test Results :: Light Pink (Bubblegum)

Effetre Light Pink (EFF260) is another colour that I am pretty late in trying. I've never been all that into pink, but like just about everything else in my life over the last few years, that seems to have changed.

The batch of Light Pink that I have tested here is a sort of famous one called Bubblegum. I'm not sure how similar or different to this one other batches of Light Pink have been. Sometimes a new batch of glass is given a special name for an important technical or aesthetic reason because it works differently or is a markedly different colour, but sometimes this happens by mistake (the glass looks different in the rod but is identical to a previous batch once melted) or as a marketing ploy. It's impossible for me to know for sure how 'special' this batch was without doing some further testing and investigation.

Light Pink doesn't change colour when you reduce it, and doesn't acquire any sort of special surface finish.

Here, you can see this colour with some other colours in the same hue group. It's lighter and cooler than both CiM Desert Pink and Gelly's Sty, pinker than Vetrofond Light Pink, and both pinker and substantially darker than Effetre White Rose and Silver Pink.

Light Pink turns yellow when you put silver on it. When the silver is reduced and encased, the yellowing of the base colour remains but the silver turns whitish.

Reducing silver glass on top of Light Pink fumes the Light Pink a brownish yellow colour. Light Pink makes an indifferent base colour for striking silver glass.

Light Pink separates on top of Tuxedo, Copper Green, Opal Yellow, and Ivory.  Ivory and Opal Yellow both separate on top of Light Pink.

When Tuxedo is used on top of Light Pink, the Light Pink rises up around it in halos.

When Ivory is used on top of Light Pink, a visual fissure shows at the edges of the dots and stringer lines, giving the stringerwork a 3-dimensional look.

Here are some other beads made using Light Pink of the Bubblegum variety:

August 8, 2017

Test Results :: Peridot

CiM Peridot is a pale spring green colour, and is like a paler version of CiM Mojito, and somewhat less yellow. It's a bit less reactive than Mojito, and is a pretty, unique addition to the 104 colour palette.

Here, you can see that Peridot doesn't change when you reduce it. In the leftmost beads, I got a fair number of scummy bubbles. Peridot does tend to scum and bubble when it gets hot, so it's important to work it on the cooler side.

Like other colours in this hue group, Peridot is quite reactive with silver. You can see in the leftmost bead that silver turned this colour an interesting colour of brown when used on the surface. When the silver was reduced and encased, that brownness is not in evidence and the silver seems to have dispersed itself uniformly all over the surface, forming a snowy blanket under the clear encasement layer.

Peridot turns silver a pretty golden colour when you use it to encase silver foil.

Peridot is a pretty base for reducing silver glass frit.  Peridot makes an average base colour for striking silver glass and does the fun silver glass frit stringer thing that I like to do with reactive transparents in a streaky blue way.

With other colours, Peridot is not particularly reactive. It's definitely not one of the colours that helps keep Copper Green clean,

August 2, 2017

Test Results :: Yangtze

CiM Yangtze (CiM457) is a pale yellow that is supposed to be a streaky colour, but in my beads ended up looking a bit more 'murky' than 'streaky'. It is interestingly reactive, in the same colour family as colours like Effetre Straw Yellow, Light Brown Transparent, and Pale Green Apple and CiM Mojito. It's wonderful with silver.

Overall, I'm not a huge fan of this colour. If I were wanting to use something this shade of yellow, I'd much sooner use the pretty, smooth, semi-opaque Cornsilk or the entirely transparent Effetre Straw Yellow. The streakiness of Yangtze is not very pronounced, and the streaks are not a very interesting colour. I wonder if I would like it better if the streakiness were a pretty warm colour like pink or orange?

Reducing doesn't change the colour of Yangtze.

With silver, Yangtze is sort of awesome. In the leftmost bead, you can see that my silver leaf really crusted up and took on a bluish appearance. When I reduced and encased the silver leaf in the middle bead, the lumpiness of the silver went away and it smoothed out into a greyish blanket over the Yangtze with blue fume in the gaps where no silver covers the base.

In the rightmost bead, where I encased silver foil with Yangtze over a base of Yangtze, my silver turned a deep golden colour.

In the bead on the left where I reduced silver glass frit on top of Yangtze, my silver glass fritty bits threw an iridescent outline around themselves in addition to sheening up themselves. I got a pretty starting strike from my TerraNova2 frit on top of Yangtze in the purple ranges, but not anything outstanding.

In the bead on the right, you can see that Yangtze can be used to create a fun subterranean streakiness when it's pulled into stringer with reducing silver glass frit, used to encase a bead, and then encased with clear. I love this effect. The colours I got with Yangtze are less bright than the colours I've achieved with some other colours in the same colour family, but I am always excited when a colour will cooperate with me and do this.

While Yangtze is fun and reactive wtih silver, it's not particularly reactive with other colours. I got some separation with Copper Green, Opal Yellow, and Ivory but that's about it.

I didn't make any other beads with Yangtze.

July 24, 2017

Test Results :: Nile Green

Effetre Nile Green is a pretty, vibrant spring green. It's super-soft, making it a fast melter. It's also quite reactive with other colours.

Here, you can see that in the bead I reduced (the one on the right), a cloudy greyish sheen has appeared on its surface, not unlike the greyish sheen that we sometimes see on turquoises and teals. I think this means that this colour has some Copper in it, although it's hard to be sure.

Here, I've compared Effetre Pea Green, Effetre Grasshopper, CiM Shrubbery, CiM Elphaba, Effetre Nile Green, and Reichenbach Olive.  Nile Green is more of a true green than many of these, not containing much yellow at all.  Now that I see what I've done here, I could wish that I had also included some teals to show how much greener Nile Green is, but I didn't, so you'll have to take my word for it being a pretty middle-of-the-road, minty green and not really tending towards blue, either.

On top of Nile Green, silver seems to just settle and shine in a fine lacy pattern. When it is reduced and encased, it gets a silvery sheen to it under the clear.

In both of these beads, you can see that the silver glass frit has been shunted into the middle of the bead is a very pronounced way. This is because of the softness of the Nile Green.  I like the pretty splash of blue I got from my reducing silver glass frit on top of this colour, but don't have much use for it as a base for striking silver glass.

Nile Green and Ivory form a reciprocal dark line reaction. When Nile Green is used on top of Ivory, the line is light brown and sort of fuzzy. When Ivory is used on top of Nile Green, the line is a bit darker and more distinct.

Nile Green is a very soft colour, and seems to both spread and separate on top of almost everything. Oddly, everything I used except for the Tuxedo separated on top of Nile Green as well.

Here are some beads that contain Nile Green.

July 18, 2017

Test Results :: Light Red

Effetre Light Red is a gorgeous colour. I don't know what took me so long to try it, but I am glad I have found it eventually :)  It's sort of in the middle of the red hues, and seems like a real, true red until you pull it out thin over white or use it in thin layers over white, when it looks more orange.

Here, you can see that Light Red doesn't change when it is reduced. It also seems not to alter much with repeated heating and cooling, maybe darkening just a bit.

One of the benefits of all of the anal-retentive planning I do is that I occasionally get to recycle a picture instead of taking a new one, and this is one of those times.  Here, you can see that Light Red is very slightly darker than Reichenbach Lipstick, and is substantially lighter than CiM Maraschino, Valentine, and Hemoglobin.

On top of Light Red, silver clouded up and visibly bunched on top of the base colour. It also fumed the base colour a dark, bluish colour. When the silver was reduced and encased, it turned blue.

Silver Glass is very pretty on top of Light Red, both the reducing kind and the striking kind.

In terms of reactions, this colour was surprisingly volatile.

On top of Tuxedo, my stringer dots and lines are decidedly mottled and blotchy.  I also got a reciprocal dark line reaction with Copper Green, and then some separation inside my stringer dots and lines of Copper Green, Ivory, and Peace when used on top of Light Red.

Opal Yellow, when I used it on top of Light Red, got a strange, irregular blotchy brownish edging to it, and where I used Light Red over Ivory, the Ivory has crept over its edges in places to do that milk moustache thing it sometimes does to other colours.

I think the very weirdest thing though is that when I used Light Red on top of Peace, so much of the red bled into the Peace that it looks pink.

Here are some other beads that contain Light Red.

July 10, 2017

Test Results :: Eel Grass

CiM Eel Grass (CiM456) is a beautiful medium forest green colour.  It is a little more muted and less yellow than CiM Slytherin. I think that it is more reminiscent of CiM Algae in colour, only lighter and much less reactive. It's a keeper.  I want more :)

Here's some Eel Grass sandwiched between CiM Algae and Effetre Pale Emerald.

Like Peat Moss, Eel Grass has a tendency to bubble a little as it is being worked.  This problem is exacerbated when you use it in stringer form. The boiling can be prevented by working cool, but I am less good at that than I'd like to be, so bubbles.

On top of Eel Grass, silver disperses and beads up. When the silver is reduced and encased in clear, it fumes a very pretty colour of blue. Eel Grass does not change the colour of silver when it is used to encase silver foil.

I knew that Eel Grass was probably not going to work well as reducing glass frit stringer before I made the leftmost bead here because the Eel Grass-encased silver foil round did not turn gold, but I tried it anyway.

My reducing silver glass frit and my TerraNova2 frit both took to this colour very well.  Now that I have tested a few of them, I'm thinking that transparent greens that are not reactive with silver pgenerally make good bases for silver glass. I had great results with Effetre Dark Grass Green (which you already know if you read this blog a lot because I can't seem to shut up about it), Effetre Sage Transparent, and CiM Slytherin as well before this one.

In the bead on the right, you can see that Eel Grass lightens significantly when used over other colours. It also appears to be one of the colours that keeps Copper Green a bit cleaner than it tends to stay on its own.

In terms of reactions, this colour is pretty mild.  The opaque colours I used on top of it separated, but that seems to be a pretty normal thing for them to do on top of a transparent and maybe not very remarkable at all, although I'll still log it as truth.

Here are some other beads involving Eel Grass:

July 3, 2017

Test Results :: Marine Green

Effetre Marine Green (EFF290) is a gorgeous, bright opaque turquoise that is more on the green side than Effetre Light Turquoise and fairly similar in colour to CiM Celadon. Marine Green has similar reactions to CiM Celadon, although there are some key differences.  It is less viscous than CiM Celadon, having a somewhat runnier consistency. It turns dark when it is molten, but lightens back up as it cools.

When Art Glass House was still selling 104 CoE glass, they called this colour Rofranna Turquoise. So, if you are wondering what the heck I am talking about when I say Marine Green, that might be why.

I did use Marine Green in this set of test beads that I did with CiM Quetzal, and you can see it here in contrast to a bunch of other colours in the same colour family.

Marine Green is harder to reduce than other turquoise colours.  I really worked at getting a brick red reduction coating on the rightmost bead here with very little success.  I achieved a sort of darkish shadow and that was about it.

Another key way in which Marine Green differs from other turquoise colours is that I didn't get a lot of yellowing from the silver I reduced and encased here in the rightmost bead.  In the bead on the left, the silver dispersed and just sort of sat greyishly on the surface of the bead.

My reducing silver glass all migrated to the middle of this bead, I think because of how much softer the Marine Green is than the transparent silver glasses I put on top of it.  I did not really get any interesting results from the silver glass in either bead.

Where I used Tuxedo on top of Marine Green, the edges of the Tuxedo dots and stringer lines fuzzed up, and in some cases, were overtaken by some cloudy Marine Green blotches, which was unexpected.

On top of Marine Green, Copper Green, Opal Yellow, Ivory, and Peace all separate.  In Ivory's case, a significant amount of brown reaction line also resulted.

Marine Green separated on top of everything else I used here, and on top of Ivory developed a wide brown reaction outline.

Here are some other beads that include Marine Green: