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August 11, 2018

Test Results :: Lilac

CiM Lilac (CiM912) is a pretty, soft pink with lavender overtones.  It reminds me a lot of Heffalump, although Heffalump is much more on the purple side.

Lilac does not change colour when you reduce it. Here, the smaller bead on the right was reduced but the larger bead was not.

Silver turns Lilac a golden yellow colour. When the silver is reduced and encased, this colour change is much less pronounced.

Reducing silver glass is very pretty on top of Lilac, with the fritty bits developing interesting halos and fuming the Lilac an  uneven yellowish colour. As a base for striking silver glass, Lilac is unremarkable.

Lilac separates on top of Ivory, Tuxedo, and Copper Green, and in thin layers is quite translucent.

Lilac rises up in  halos around Tuxedo stringer lines and dots. Opal Yellow, Ivory, and Peace all spread on top of Lilac.

Here are some other beads that include Lilac:

July 30, 2018

Test Results :: Camouflage

CiM Camouflage (CiM464) is a medium. green opaque glass. It's quite streaky, separating on itself in lacelike patterns, and this behaviour seems to be aggravated by the addition of silver, becoming more pronounced. It reacts with Ivory, and my experiment with encasing it met with some cracking failure. My rods of this colour were extremely shocky, and I didn't enjoy using them at all. I only tried three, though, so that should probably not be taken as indicative of the whole batch's behaviour.

Here, I've shot Camouflage and Amphibian spacers, side by side. You can see that Camouflage is darker and greener than Amphibian, which has a softer, slightly bluer and greyer hue.

In the leftmost bead here, you can see the strange crazing lines that this colour developed. The beads are both single-colour but I probably added to the larger one multiple times from the same source rod. I don't think the lines developed along the additions, though, the way we see with some colours.

The bead on the left in this picture has silver leaf added to it, and the crazing of the surface is much more pronounced than it was in the spacer bead. When this kind of crazing or reticulation happens in other colours (like Dark Ivory, for instance) we call it 'curdling', but for some reason I am having trouble associating that word with something this colour.

In the rightmost bead, you can see that my reduced and encased silver leaf developed a yellowish cast under the clear. You can also see some unfortunate cracks that seem like they are incompatibility. I encased here with Effetre 006 Clear.

I sometimes have this problem with greens after I've added silver to them and encase, but then I'll try to encase another bead the same size and shape without the silver but with the same clear and get a better, crack-free result. I am not a chemist, but my working theory is that the silver changes the CoE or viscosity of either the colour or the clear (or both) in just the right amount to cause this problem.

In the bead on the left, I got some pretty colours from my reduction frit, and there is interesting fuming on the base bead underneath it. My TerraNova2 frit got a nice starting strike, but no magic happened.

Camouflage seems to separate on top of every other colour - it's not a very cohesive colour.

It develops a gentle brown line reaction with Ivory, both when over or under it. In addition to the brownish outline, when Ivory is used on top of Camouflage, it separates quite dramatically.

Using more reactive colours over Camouflage like Copper Green or Opal Yellow seemed to exacerbate its separation/crazing.

Here are some additional beads made with Camouflage.

July 22, 2018

Test Results :: Dark Red Brown

Effetre Dark Red Brown (EFF452) is a very dark, brown, opaque colour. It is not terribly reactive, and lightens up considerably when used in thin layers.

Dark Red Brown doesn't change colour when you reduce it.

Dark Red Brown behaviour with silver is consistent with what I've experienced with both other Browns and other Reds. Silver develops a greyish crust on top of Dark Red Brown, and when that silver crust is reduced and encased, it turns blue.

Dark Red Brown makes a fairly effective base colour for silver glass. You can see in the left bead here that my blue reducing silver glass got nice colour and interesting outlines on top of this colour. It's less evident from the picture that I got nice colour from the TerraNova2 frit because the whole bead is so dark, but the frit did get a nice starting strike.

Dark Red Brown is definitely not a colour that helps Copper Green stay green. My Copper Green with this colour has a distinctly ungreen reddish greyness about it.

Ivory, Opal Yellow, and Copper Green all separated on top of Dark Red Brown. Peace didn't.

Dark Red Brown is a very saturated, deep colour but you can see that it lightens up substantially when used in thin layers on top of much lighter colours like Opal Yellow, Ivory, and Peace.

Here are some other beads that contain Dark Red Brown.

June 21, 2018

Test Results :: Light Aqua

Effetre Light Aqua (EFF034) is a medium, transparent aqua colour.

I wanted Light Aqua to turn red when I reduced it, but I couldn't make it do that. It did darken and start to look sort of dirty after multiple reduction attempts, though, so that's something.

Here, I've used some of the more 'aqua' blues in my stash to show you Light Aqua against a backdrop of other, similar colours. As you can see here, it's much less of a jump saturation-wise to Dark Aqua from Light Aqua than it is from Pale Aqua to Light Aqua. I wish there was another step between Pale Aqua and Light Aqua.

Here is Light Aqua with Light Teal and the newer CiM Poolside for some additional comparison.

Reducing and encasing silver on top of Light Aqua makes it turn yellow. Silver on the surface and silver under Light Aqua stay silvery.

Light Aqua is unremarkable as a base for silver glass. It's decent, but there was nothing extraordinary about these beads.

Light Aqua develops a dark line reaction with Light Ivory, but you'll notice that this is much more evident when the Light Ivory is under the Light Aqua. You can see the brownness through the Light Ivory which is actually quite pretty.

Apart from that, the only thing that really stood out here is that Opal Yellow separates on top of this colour, developing a ring around its edges that gives the illusion of being raised off the surface of the bead, almost like it's beveled.

Here are some other beads made with Effetre Light Aqua:

June 11, 2018

Test Results :: Amphibian

The stock paddle photo of CiM Amphibian (CiM 423) is a very interesting two-toned green colour, so when I started using this I thought the beads would come out that way. They don't, but the uniform grey-green colour that Amphibian does yield is beautiful.

I really enjoyed using this colour. It is a pretty green that has an interesting reaction profile. It doesn't react negatively with Ivory and other sulfur-containing colours and it fumes brown with silver. This is not unlike what I have observed with Effetre Grasshopper, but Amphibian is a bit bluer, and quite a bit greyer than Grasshopper.

Amphibian doesn't change when you reduce it.

Silver crusts up on top of Amphibian and turns it a yellowish brown colour. When the silver is reduced and encased, it evens out on the surface of the bead and looks uniformly silvery.

On top of Amphibian, silver glass frit blooms. In both of these beads, I got excellent colour in the silver glass. In the leftmost bead where I reduced the frit, you can see a golden aura around the fritty bit edges.

Copper Green, Opal Yellow, Ivory, and Peace all separate on top of Amphibian. Amphibian separates on top of Tuxedo, Copper Green, Opal Yellow, and Ivory (but, oddly, not Peace.)

On top of Amphibian, Opal Yellow also develops a strange dark yellow line around it. I'm not really sure what to make of this reaction because I've never seen it before, but I quite like it.

These beads all contain a little Amphibian.

June 4, 2018

Test Results :: Mystic Violet

Reichenbach Mystic Violet (RL0201) is a medium purple semi-opaque colour that works up like shampoo glass. The more you heat and work this colour, the more it loses its rich, pretty purpleness, so if you want to keep the dark plumminess that you see in my spacer beads below, don't use presses on it, and work quickly.

Mystic Violet devitrifies, and is very sensitive to overworking. I made a goddess bead with it, and everywhere I joined new Mystic Violet to old Mystic Violet and melted it in, the seams are pocked with little marks from where the glass pitted and devitrified. 

I left this goddess bead in the tumbler for I don't even know how many cycles, and it never really ended up looking the way I wished it would. The devitrification was so strong that even tumbling her for so long that the grit in my tumbler wore her nipples off couldn't fix the discolouration and pitting problems.

Here you can see that Mystic Violet is a little lighter than Effetre Medium Amethyst, and you can also see the shampoo effect as it's worked up. Because of the 'mystic' shampooness of it, you can see a lot more of this glass' colour than you usually can from a transparent that is this deep. Case in point -- what colour would you say Dark Amethyst and Simply Berry were if you didn't already know they were purple?

Silver beads up and disperses on top of Mystic Violet. When the silver is reduced and encased, it looks fairly uniformly mauve on top of this colour, and has a slightly lacy feel to it.

In the bead on the left, you can see from my one press and subsequent firepolishing of this bead that the colour is starting to leave the Mystic Violet.

Mystic Violet isn't remarkable as a base for silver glass. I got an 'ok' starting strike in my TerraNova2 frit, but nothing remarkable.

Mystic Violet is not very reactive, but Copper Green does separate on top of it. To a much lesser degree, so do Opal Yellow and Ivory.

Here are some other beads made with Mystic Violet.